New Left Apron Decal Women of LOTR

Replaced the left apron decal with a picture of ringwraiths (5th link down on the left) from this excellent site. (The link 10 down is fun too Van Halen 'Jump' + MAME).

Printed it out actual size, using best quality with glossy premium photo paper.  Cut out and stuck over the original decal with tiny blobs of Museum Gel, which should be removable. Perfect.
Provided on the site are decals of a Felbeast and Mt. Doom. I'm really happy with the result.

But don't get me wrong about the Women of LOTR, first look at the images.

Installed 9 of the #44 green bulbs made yesterday: 4 x GI sockets along the left side of the PF, 4 x GI under the slingshots.  Wiped the tip of one bulb clear before drying, went under the ring ramp.

Green glow on the left now and more golden on the right.  Need to play some games this weekend to see what I think, not sure about the slings but the rest is good on first impression.

Replaced the Shire VUK switch,

Replaced the Shire VUK switch, part number 180-5116-01. Spec on side of switch says Cherry .1A 125v E63.

How to remove the Bottom Left VUK coil and bracket from under the PF (playfield) to change the "forked switch":

1. Take out the two largest bolts first, using a cross-head (phillips) screwdriver on the top and 11/32" nut runner (or socket) on the bottom..  Remove the metal VUK "arch" from the top of the playfield.
2. Remove the two lower wood screws (1/4" drive) leaving the one on the corner near the T-nut.
3. Supporting the Coil Bracket, remove the last 1/4" screw.
4. Unclip the connector from the coil and VUK.  Remove coil and bracket assembly.
5. Microswitch small screws are 3/16".  As before, to remve the switch right you need a nut driver (or socket) that size.

You should be able to slide the heatshrink tubing all the way up the wires, solder on the new switch and then slide them back down in place. If not, use new heatshrink tubing.
Assembly is above steps in reverse. Test in switch tests and throwing a ball in there in attract mode. Job done.

Noticed that a ball had hung on the bottom Legolas ramp for another player when struck very lightly.  Caused a ball search and "chase ball" to be served.  I had seen this before, so while the PF was up, I tightened three 11/32" bolts at the bottom of the habitrail.  One (on right side) seemed very loose, which may fix it. (didn't work)

Put a #555 bulb-style color changing LED in the Palantir Insert to try there.  Seems to have a different flash rate to the Palantir LED.

Dipped 10 x #44 clear bulbs (recovered on 23rd March) in "GlassART Light Green" to make green bulbs.  These are for GI along the left side of the PF and under the slingshots.

Re-wrote a comic strip on Monday to be more about me, although the drawing is not mine.  Called a mash-up.  Had an argument with my wife (we are usually compatible, even on pinball related things).  I got angry, took a (D-ahem)Gilbert comic and had fed her to the Pinball Orcs by Wednesday.
Enjoy!

GI Colored Bulbs a "How To"

Installed 10 x #44 yellow bulbs
P4P order arrives including the VUK forked replacement switch, I like that description as in "Your VUK switch is forked, get a new one"!
Also 10 yellow #44 bulbs from P4P which were an easy fit: 9 along the shooter lane for the controlled lamps that "strobe" in sequence.  The other bulb is a GI further in under the sword lock.
Planning to change the sword lock flasher for an amber/yellow bulb.  Once I figure out how to do it without taking the whole sword ramp apart! An LED flasher would be better there, too.
Update 25 Mar 2010: I did this with fingertips from each side, but it's not easy.  Now an Amber/Yellow #906 flasher.

• Tip: Change G.I. bulbs from the underside more easily without taking apart slingshots or plastics. Use a small power screwdriver with no bit, the 1/4" drive is exactly the right size.  Stern put in black "post beads" which act as gromets to hold the screws in place.  All these tips work on other games.

I usually make my own colored bulbs with "Marabu GlassArt" glass paint, but didn't have any yellow. It's for painting vases or lightbulbs,
a guy called "Modding Stan" in the UK taught me how. Use a clothespeg to dip them, hold glass bulb downwards and wipe the excess back into the jar.  Hang them over the side of a table with a weight on top of the peg, glass bulb down.
Wipe any excess with the edge of a kitchen towel before it dries if it forms a drip. Dry for 24hrs and done! Lots of green ones on the GI of my AFM, better for GI than LEDs as the triacs dim them up and down right.

I use the following colors ( from www.artdiscount.co.uk probably available near you, too)

• Green Bulbs - GlassART 50ml 463 Light Green
• Red   Bulbs - GlassART 50ml 434 Bordeaux
• Blue  Bulbs - GlassART 50ml 498 Turquoise
• There is a Yellow (420) and a Lemon (421) listed but I haven't tried them.  The darker of the two is Yellow.

A 50ml jar costs £3 in the UK ($4.50) and does a lot of #44/47/555 Bulbs or #906 Flashers!

PinballPal Stealth protectors for cabinet and playfield arrives.  Mylar protectors fit nicely around the Start Button and Flipper buttons.  I also like the extra lockbar foam strip with the leg protectors, as you can get wear on the brass siderails and cabinet paint under the lockbar without them.

After working on the game, I had other things to do!  So I didn't get around to fitting the Shire VUK or playing any pinball today. :(